1 Vehicle & Lease Terms
Enter the core numbers from your dealer's lease worksheet.
2 Hidden Fees Exposer
Fees dealers bury in the fine print. Every dollar here costs you.
Dealer Add-Ons
Check any add-ons the dealer included. Most are available cheaper aftermarket.
3 Lease Breakdown Dashboard
Step-by-step: where every dollar of your lease goes.
4 Dealer Markup Detector
Is the dealer padding your rate? Let's find out.
| Credit Tier | Score Range | Buy Rate MF | Typical APR |
|---|---|---|---|
| Excellent (Tier 1) | 720+ | 0.000500.00100 | 1.2%2.4% |
| Good (Tier 2) | 680719 | 0.001000.00175 | 2.4%4.2% |
| Fair (Tier 3) | 640679 | 0.001750.00275 | 4.2%6.6% |
| Subprime (Tier 4) | 600639 | 0.002750.00400 | 6.6%9.6% |
| Deep Subprime | < 600 | 0.00400+ | 9.6%+ |
APR Visual Scale
Estimated Dealer Profit Breakdown
5 Lease vs. Buy vs. Finance
Side-by-side which option costs you the least?
Finance (Loan) Parameters
| Metric | Lease | Buy (Cash) | Finance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Monthly Cost | $0 | $0 | $0 |
| Total Cash Out | $0 | $0 | $0 |
| Vehicle Equity at End | $0 | $0 | $0 |
| Net Cost (Cash - Equity) | $0 | $0 | $0 |
| Cost Per Mile | $0 | $0 | $0 |
Leasing is renting you build zero equity. But it can make sense if you want a new car every 3 years and drive fewer miles.
6 Visual Cost Breakdown
See where your money goes at a glance.
Monthly Payment Breakdown
Total Lease Cost Breakdown
7 Negotiation Tips & Red Flags
Context-aware advice based on your numbers.
Car Buying Essentials
Knowledge is your best negotiation tool. We strongly recommend scanning the vehicle's paint with a digital coating thickness gauge before signing any lease to detect undisclosed body repairs. Once you bring the car home, protect the factory finish immediately using a premium ceramic coating kit to avoid costly excess wear and tear charges at lease turn-in.
How Does a Car Lease Work?
When you lease a car, you aren't buying the vehicle; you are paying for its depreciation during the term you drive it. The dealer starts with a Capitalized Cost (the negotiated sale price), subtracts the Residual Value (what the car is predicted to be worth at the end of the lease), and divides that depreciation over your lease term. They then add a Finance Charge calculated using a "Money Factor" (which can be converted to an APR by multiplying by 2,400). Dealers often inflate this Money Factor and hide add-ons in the Capitalized Cost, masking the true cost behind an appealing monthly payment. TrueLease strips away the jargon, revealing the dealer's hidden profit margins and helping you compare leasing versus buying.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a money factor on a car lease?
Money factor is the leasing industry's way of expressing the interest rate as a small decimal. To convert money factor to APR, multiply by 2,400. A money factor of 0.00125 equals 3.0% APR. Dealers are not required to disclose the money factor — you must ask for it and do the conversion yourself.
Is it better to lease or buy a car?
Leasing costs less per month but you own nothing at the end. Buying costs more per month but builds equity. Leasing wins if you want a new car every 3 years, drive under 12,000 miles/year, and value lower payments. Buying wins if you keep cars 7+ years, drive high miles, or want to modify the vehicle.
What fees should I watch for in a car lease?
The most expensive hidden fees are: acquisition fee ($500-$1,000), disposition fee ($300-$500 at lease end), excess mileage ($0.15-$0.30/mile over limit), excessive wear charges, and early termination penalties. Always negotiate the capitalized cost (sale price) down before discussing monthly payments.
A car lease calculator converts the dealer's money factor into a real APR interest rate, exposes hidden acquisition and disposition fees, and compares total cost of leasing versus buying. Enter MSRP, residual value, money factor, and term to decode the true cost of the deal.